Voyage to Paradise

Original Itinerary

This will be a holiday after all, so the emphasis is on flexibility and comfort. Of course we don't want to miss any of the really good stuff! We start with a plan, recognizing that it may change along the way as we all discover the places and things we enjoy the most.

The itinerary below is subject to change based on the desires of the crew in advance or as we sail. The suggestions here are based on many years of sailing the area, following the changes in restaurants and anchorages, and the enjoyment we have had as a couple and a family in our last two trips. In particular, we may choose to eat aboard more or less often than indicated as the spirit moves us.

The last day of the 2002-2003 school year in Fairfax County Public Schools is Friday, June 20. Although planning and cost estimation is based on departing June 21st and returning June 29th, a later week is possible. Plans should be finalized and the boat reserved by Christmas 2002.

Update 11/11/2002: Added shopping opportunities at each stop.

Image used by permission from BVI Welcome On-line
copyright 1995-2000 by Island Publishing Services, Ltd

Saturday

Flights leave in the morning with a plane change in San Juan to Beef Island International Airport just off the eastern end of Tortola. We arrive at The Moorings in Roadtown in late afternoon, usually with plenty of time to move into the boat, unpack, receive the boat briefing (where everything is and how it works), and taxi into town for dinner (and painkillers!) at Pusser's Landing. The Roadtown Pusser's is the first stop in the Pusser's Triangle. There's time for a bit of shopping--for those so inclined--in the three gift shops at The Moorings, at Pussers, and at the shops along the harbor.

Sunday

The arrival of provisions is the last step in preparation for departure. The Ample Hamper arrived exactly as promised last year (startling in this land of "island time"). Our menu planning pays off as it becames a packing plan for the refrigerator and coolers. There is a surprising amount of storage in the galley and salon and we will soon be on our way. First stop: Salt Island, either anchoring in the lee of the island or picking up a mooring ball near the wreck of HMS Rhone for swimming and snorkeling before lunch.

After lunch we sail to Manchioneel Bay at Cooper Island. Ashore there is a small beach club and bar, perfect for lazing away (called "limin'") a few hours on the beach or casual shopping in the Beach Club shop, the dive shop, or the little "stores" in huts along the beach. There is snorkeling at the south end of the bay. "Tea" in the afternoon (although there is rarely any tea to be seen) may be back aboard or on the beach at our whim. We will watch the sunset as the grill warms for dinner aboard.

Monday

After breakfast, a short sail takes us to The Baths on Virgin Gorda. This spectacular rock formation is a "don't miss" while in the BVI. We'll anchor south of the traditional landing and go ashore in Devil's Bay. This gently rising, near-deserted beach is only a few hundred feet from the back entrance to The Baths and landing the dinghy is significantly easier here. For the athletic (or motivated) there is a restaurant, bar, and a row of shops at The Top of the Baths up a trail from the entrance to the Baths. Last year we walked up, had a drink while looking out over the Sir Francis Drake Channel, and picked up some beautiful fabric. In all likelihood we'll have lunch on the beach before returning to the boat and sailing to Jane's favorite place: Marina Cay. "Tea" aboard on arrival, and dinner at Donovan's Reef, a new restaurant that we saw being built on Scrub Island during our honeymoon in 2001. All reports have been glowing. Regardless, we will have a painkiller in the Pusser's Landing for our second stop on the Triangle; this Pusser's has the largest gift and supply shop. Anouk, a local jewelry-maker, stops by in her boat to display her wares in the comfort of our cockpit.

Tuesday

A short sail after breakfast to The Dogs, a small group of islands--although known for good snorkeling--to which we have never quite made it. Lunch at anchor before we return to Marina Cay to anchor for the night unless we choose to search out a new (to us) bay along Scrub or Guano Islands. Tea and dinner aboard.

Wednesday

Today is our long sail day. About three hours on an easy broad reach will take us to the uninhabited Sandy Cay for snorkeling and more limin' on the boat or the beach. A short sail across to the north side of Tortola will take us to Cane Garden Bay and dinner at Myett's (which has it's own shop) or one of the other renowned island restaurants there. There is the island version of a "mall" that you must see to believe where we found some great items last year (and the year before) as well as some treats for tea that afternoon. CGB is also home to Callwood's Distillery, the only rum-maker in the BVI. The picture at left shows us at anchor in CGB in August 2002.

Thursday

Back across the channel and past Sandy Cay we'll sail to beautiful White Bay on Jost Van Dyke. The shallow water inside the reef and limited room have resulted in the local charter companies placing White Bay off-limits to most charters; your esteemed (okay, self-esteemed) captain has received permission to anchor here for the day. In addition to the picture below looking along the beach, the oval picture on the first sailing page was taken at White Bay.

More limin', perhaps at the famous Soggy Dollar Bar in White Bay. The bar is so-named because sailors would swim ashore and pay for their drinks with soggy dollars. We will proceed with more decorum in the dinghy. Unless you can't wait.

We'll move a bit to the east for overnight anchorage in Little Harbor. Over the last several years, Great Harbor (our previous overnight anchorage on Jost Van Dyke) has become a bit busy and noisy, so we plan to try Little Harbor. Our latest information is that there are fewer boats frequenting Little Harbor so it should be a better stop. We are following up on some other opinions, so this stop may change; we may even stay in White Bay. Dinner aboard or a short water taxi ride away at Foxy's in Great Harbor (shopping).

Friday

Back across the channel to the Tortola West End anchorage of Soper's Hole. Lunch ashore (a treat!) and shopping today. Painkiller's at Pusser's Landing completes the triangle and we receive our Triangle pennant. A stop in the West End Ample Hamper for something special for "tea" today and for dinner tomorrow. Perhaps a dinghy ride through the channel for the adventerous, and dinner at Pusser's or--if it is open--The Jolly Roger.

Saturday

Traditionally an early start from Soper's Hole since it is usually our last stop. Our experience last year with a catamaran caused us to change our plan a bit, so this morning we'll round Frenchmen's Reef (the southern boundary of Soper's Hole, pictured at left) and sail to The Indians for sightseeing, swimming, and snorkeling. We'll sail another mile or so to The Caves of "Treasure Island" fame on Norman Island. Lunch here, a dinghy ride, snorkeling for those so inclined. Around tea-time we'll select an overnight anchorage in The Bight. We'll dinghy over to the William Thornton (a restaurant and bar on an old ship) or Pirates on the beach (or both!) for drinks before we retire to our boat for dinner. We've found visiting the Willie-T and Pirates to be fun, but eating there is not.

Sunday

After rising on our last day in paradise, we'll sail across Sir Francis Drake Channel for the last time, returning our boat to The Moorings by noon. After lunch, flights depart in the early afternoon and we arrive home in the late evening, replete with souvenirs, pictures, memories, and plans for another year.

Alternate Itinerary