Voyage to Paradise

Itinerary

Travel Arrangements

Updated 12/18/2002: The itinerary is firming up, at least as far as an initial plan for us to work from. Thanks to all the sailors who have provided advice and recommendations.

This will be a holiday after all, so the emphasis is on flexibility and comfort. Of course we don't want to miss any of the really good stuff! We start with a plan, recognizing that it may change along the way as we all discover the places and things we enjoy the most.

The itinerary below is subject to change based on the desires of the crew in advance or as we sail. The suggestions here are based on many years of sailing the area, following the changes in restaurants and anchorages, and the enjoyment we have had as a couple and a family in our last two trips. I've also gotten a lot of advice from other sailors who are as enamoured of the BVI as I. In particular, we may choose to eat aboard more or less often than indicated as the spirit moves us.

The last day of the 2002-2003 school year in Fairfax County Public Schools is Friday, June 20. We're leaving the next day. We've started counting snow days in fear that the school year will be extended; the uncertainty adds a little excitement, but even if the school year is extended we WILL be leaving to go sailing the next day. Our boat--a Moorings 4700--is confirmed and airline reservations have been made.

Image used by permission from BVI Welcome On-line
copyright 1995-2000 by Island Publishing Services, Ltd

Saturday

Flights leave from BWI Saturday morning June 21st about 7 am on a continuing flight through San Juan to St. Thomas, arriving around 1 pm. There we will catch a ferry to Tortola. We'll get off in West End to clear customs and then take the ferry on to Road Town. Depending on which ferry we catch we should be in Road Town some time between 4 pm and 7 pm. Earlier is better to leave us plenty of time to move into the boat, unpack, receive the boat briefing (where everything is and how it works), and taxi into town for painkillers at Pusser's Pub and dinner at Spaghetti Junction. The Roadtown Pusser's is the first stop in the Pusser's Triangle. There's time for a bit of shopping--for those so inclined--in the two gift shops at The Moorings, at Pussers, and at the shops along the harbor.

Sunday

The arrival of provisions is the last step in preparation for departure. The Ample Hamper arrived exactly as promised last year (startling in this land of "island time"). Our menu planning pays off as it becames a packing plan for the refrigerator and coolers. There is a surprising amount of storage in the galley and salon and we will soon be on our way. As our plan continues to evolve and firm up, we may be able to arrange for delivery of the provisions on Saturday afternoon which will allow us to make an earlier start today. First stop: Salt Island, either anchoring in the lee of the island or picking up a mooring ball near the wreck of HMS Rhone for swimming and snorkeling before lunch.

After lunch we sail to Manchioneel Bay at Cooper Island. Ashore there is a small beach club and bar, perfect for lazing away (called "limin'") a few hours on the beach or casual shopping in the Beach Club shop, the dive shop, or the little "stores" in huts along the beach. There is snorkeling at the south end of the bay at Caneel Point. "Tea" in the afternoon (although there is rarely any tea to be seen) may be back aboard or on the beach at our whim. We will watch the sunset as the grill warms for dinner aboard.

Monday

After breakfast, a short sail takes us to The Baths on Virgin Gorda. This spectacular rock formation is a "don't miss" while in the BVI. We'll anchor south of the traditional landing and go ashore in Devil's Bay. This gently rising, near-deserted beach is only a few hundred feet from the back entrance to The Baths and landing the dinghy is significantly easier here. For the athletic (or motivated) there is a restaurant, bar, and a row of shops at The Top of the Baths up a trail from the entrance to the Baths. Last year we walked up, had a drink while looking out over the Sir Francis Drake Channel, and picked up some beautiful fabric. In all likelihood we'll have lunch on the beach before returning to the boat and sailing to North Sound. We have two mildly competing destinations. Leverick Bay is yet another beautiful stop with a small shop and--importantly--a Pusser's for another stamp on our Pusser's Triangle card. Leverick is in the south-west corner of North Sound. Another reportedly lovely spot is Saba Rock, a small resort, restaurant and bar, and shop located quite literally on a large rock at the eastern end of North Sound, between Prickly Pear Island and Virgin Gorda. In addition to its aesthetic qualities, Saba Rock includes a bag of ice and up to 200 gallons of water with each paid mooring ball. It's likely that we'll swing by Saba Rock for the ice and water, pick up a mooring ball, and dinghy over to Leverick Bay.

Tuesday

This morning calls for a decision. We may take a short sail after breakfast to The Dogs, a small group of islands--although known for good snorkeling--we have never quite managed to visit. Lunch at anchor before we proceed to Marina Cay (Jane's favorite place in the BVI) to anchor for the night. "Tea" aboard on arrival, and dinner at Donovan's Reef, a new restaurant that we saw being built on Scrub Island during our honeymoon in 2001. All reports have been glowing. Regardless, we will have a painkiller in the Pusser's for our third stop on the Triangle; we'll get our Triangle pennant. This Pusser's has the largest gift and supply shop. Anouk, a local jewelry-maker, stops by in her boat to display her wares in the comfort of our cockpit.

Alternatively, we may make an early start this morning for the three hour (perhaps less depending on wind conditions), 12 mile sail to Anegada. The early start assures us of arriving at mid-day when visibility is best. We've never been to "The Forbidden Island" before and I'm tired of hearing how wonderful its beaches are. Let's go look! Tea and dinner on board, but lot's of opportunities to explore, including Loblolly Bay reported to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

Wednesday

If we sail to Anegada on Tuesday, today we will sail to The Dogs and on to Marina Cay. I would never suggest missing Jane's favorite spot!

If we skipped Anegada, today will be a very easy day. We may snorkel at Monkey Point or in Long Bay or Lambert's Bay on Tortola. There are a few stores in Trellis Bay, including Aragorn's Studio. We'll move the boat, use the dinghy, and take advantage of the free ferry between Marina Cay and Trellis Bay based on the number of people who would like to do each thing. VHF communications will keep us all connected and make sure no one feels stuck.

Thursday

Today we sail about three hours on an easy broad reach that takes us to the uninhabited isle of Sandy Cay (or perhaps the similar isle of Green Cay or the miniscule islet of Sandy Spit, all depending on what attracts us and the number of other boats). There we can snorkel and lim' on the boat or the beach. In the afternoon, a short sail across to the north side of Tortola will take us to Cane Garden Bay and dinner at Myett's (which has it's own shop) or one of the other renowned island restaurants there. There is the island version of a "mall" that you must see to believe where we found some great items last year (and the year before) as well as some treats for tea that afternoon. CGB is also home to Callwood's Distillery, the only rum-maker in the BVI. The picture at left shows us at anchor in CGB in August 2002.

Friday

A morning sail along the north-west shore of Tortola to the West End anchorage of Soper's Hole (where we cleared customs and immigration on Saturday). Lunch ashore (a treat!) and shopping today. Painkiller's at Pusser's Landing starts a new triangle for completion another time. A stop in the West End Ample Hamper for something special for "tea" today and for dinner tomorrow. Back across the channel and past Sandy Cay we'll sail to beautiful White Bay on Jost Van Dyke. The shallow water inside the reef and limited room have resulted in the local charter companies placing White Bay off-limits to most charters; your esteemed (okay, self-esteemed) captain has received permission to anchor here. In addition to the picture here looking along the beach, the oval picture on the first sailing page was taken at White Bay. More limin' here, perhaps at the famous Soggy Dollar Bar in White Bay. The bar is so-named because sailors would swim ashore and pay for their drinks with soggy dollars. We will proceed with more decorum in the dinghy. Unless you can't wait. Dinner a short taxi (or dinghy) ride away at Foxy's in Great Harbor.

Saturday

This morning we'll sail past Soper's Hole and round the western end of Frenchmen's Cay (the southern boundary of Soper's Hole, pictured at left) and sail to The Indians for sightseeing, swimming, and snorkeling. We'll sail another mile or so to The Caves of "Treasure Island" fame on Norman Island. Lunch here, a dinghy ride, snorkeling for those so inclined. Around tea-time we'll select an overnight anchorage in The Bight. We'll dinghy over to the William Thornton (a restaurant and bar on an old ship) or Pirates on the beach (or both!) for drinks before we retire to our boat for dinner. We've found visiting the Willie-T and Pirates to be fun, but eating there is not.

Sunday

After rising on our last day in paradise, we'll sail across Sir Francis Drake Channel for the last time, returning our boat to The Moorings in time to check in, clean up, have an early lunch, and catch a 1:30 pm flight from the nearby airport on Beef Island. We arrive home in the late evening, replete with souvenirs, pictures, memories, and plans for another year.

Original Itinerary

Alternate Itinerary